Master KF -Building tutorial

This is a replica of Jedi Kit Fisto hilt for DIY. We hope you enjoy building your saber with this page and tutorial.

The Kit is CNC machinered aluminium. and includes:

  • 1″ blade Emitter part
  • Body section
  • Vented Pommel
  • Greeblies
  • Led holder bezel and two 5mm LED
  • o-rings
  • Black anodized Covertech wheel

The overall size is 26,5cm. ID is 25mm, and bottom section is up to 24mm to hold bigger speakers. Pommel is vented as picture shows.

Tutorial

It is an empty hilt ready to be installed with your own electronics. Also you can make your own surface finish.

Weathered version by Matt Slate

The Kit Fisto is a hilt with an ID about 25mm (0,97”). This is needed to keep an screen accurate replica. With such narrow internal space the easiest way to install is make a chassis in two parts one to keep the battery, speaker and recharge port on the bottom part, and one part on the top to hold the soundboard. Switches can be done with one or two functional bezels

Suggested Materials

Preparation of battery chassis part

A 3D printed chassis part 1 is available here to download and print.

3D printed chassis

It also can be ordered in the Shapeways service.

  • Red and White wires, are 24AWG for V+ supply and GND that goes to the board. It is recomended to leave wires enough length about 11” .
  • Two 30AWG wires from speakers(yellow in picture)
  • Wires to female JST connector
This is how to wire the recharge port
Introduce the battery pack in the chassis

Removable battery chassis

This solution avoids using the recharge port and also allows 28mm speakers.

Coming soon…

Preparation of soundboard chassis part

There are different options. There is a chassis for Proffieboard or CFX that includes a holder for 19mm pogo PCB connector.

Golden Harvest chassis

The chassis for the Sabertec Golden Harvest is also available.
This is the solution for PixelBlade pogo connectors

How to make switches

To make a funtional replica, at least you will need one switch (NBv4, PicoCrumble), but two is always much better for some boards (Proffieboard, GH, Prizm, CFX,…)

One option is to purchase ready made switches from C.I.G (distributed by TCSS in US). These switches are very well done with functional light.  They include 4 wires, two for switches and two por V+ and GND for light. In this case only need to screw the bezels that will fit the body hole.

Another option is to make the switches by you own, we can explain how to make a simplier ones without light. The process is this:

Solder 2 wires to a 4,5×4,5mm tactile switch, use retractile tube to isolate the legs of this switch. Cut unused legs of tactile switch

Cut 5mm LED legs with a pliers or any cutting tool.

Trim a little bit inside the LED holder with a rotary tool like Dremel until the tactile switch enters

Insert the LED plastic part and the tactile switch with heatsing tube on pads.
Then fix by 3d printed part or hot glue

Enjoy and share your result.